Goldfish health and maintaining a fishpond

Posted by wktd - November 20th, 2008

  • I'm assembling information for a book on goldfish and fishponds. I'm only interested in cold water fish, goldfish and koi, no tropical fish. I'd like to find out more about the following goldfish topics: health diseases and their symptoms breeding how long to goldfish live how much water per fish is required in a pond breeding goldfish goldfish changing colour water temperature cleaning a pond and general pond maintenance instructions and design for building a pond pond filtration - different types for different climates, circumstancees pumps introducing plants to a pond introducing fish to the pond changing the water? building or adding a waterfall controlling algae ammonia and nitrates adding salt - is it necesssary


  • Hi ali_s, Here you go, as always, click on the links for full details and illustrations and to follow the many links that the websites provide. The challenge hasn't been in finding enough websites about building ponds (there are many!), but rather separating the wheat from the chaff. POND Horticulturist Doug Benedict discusses water gardens in general in this audio clip. http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/wg_aquatic_animals_plants/article/0,2029,DIY_14418_2272619,00.html 1) instructions and design for building a pond After viewing many websites on the subject, I believe POND RUSHES contains the best, most comprehensive instructions and I highly recommend it (and it's non-commercial). There are lots of links to follow, all cross-referenced and illustrated. Terrific site. POND RUSHES Step 1: Thinking Step 2: Research Step 3: Planning Step 4: Building Plants and Fish Tips Low Maintenance Library Other Stuff Links Pond Calculatorss http://www.pondrushes.net/ Additional Links of Interest: Steps for Building a Pond [illustrated] [calculators] http://www.watergarden.com/pages/build_wg.html Building a Pond http://www.exit109.com/~gosta/pond.sht Building a Water Garden [with photos] http://www.diynet.com/diy/wg_installation_maint/article/0,2029,DIY_14419_2270583,00.html Building a Pond [with photos] [9 steps] http://www.tetra-fish.com/pond/buildpond.aspx On Goldfish Pond--in Your Backyard by Frank M. Greco, Senior Aquarist, Coney Island Aquarium http://www.newyorktails.com/fish2.htm Pond Building Basics http://www.angelfire.com/ga/earthwise/garden.html 2) pond filtration, pumps, & waterfalls Horticulturist Doug Benedict discusses water garden filters in this audio clip. http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/wg_aquatic_animals_plants/article/0,2029,DIY_14418_2272619,00.html Horticulturist Doug Benedict discusses water garden filters in this audio clip. javascript:void(window.open('/cr/cda/playerex/1,1979,DIY_31634,00.html', 'mm_31634', 'width=350,height=555,scrollbars=auto,menubar=no,toolbar=no,status=no,resizable=yes')) "It's important here to remember one rule - The filter(s) can only be too small, not too big. If you don't mind green or cloudy water, and only want a few fish, you can ignore this rule. Generally the more filtration, the more life you can support. If your pond is in direct sunlight (mine is in summer) it will generate a lot of algae and become nearly opaque without a good filtering system. Essentially filtration boils down to three kinds: 1. Mechanical - which physically removes matter from the water. 2. Biological - which uses bacteria to break down matter (particularly ammonia) into stuff that can be utilized elsewhere. 3. Chemical - which kills algae and bacteria that would otherwise discolor the water. The explanations are simplistic but functional enough for this discussion. Effectively, in my pond I use the first two and religiously avoid the third. It's important here to remember one rule - The filter(s) can only be too small, not too big. If you don't mind green or cloudy water, and only want a few fish, you can ignore this rule. Generally the more filtration, the more life you can support. If your pond is in direct sunlight (mine is in summer) it will generate a lot of algae and become nearly opaque without a good filtering system." " The absolute best filter I have found (after spending major league time and money experimenting) is a lava rock system. Lava rock is very porous (it's so light that some often float until they soak up water enough to sink ). All that surface area will get covered with good bacteria to break down the ammonia from fish waste and eats the algae that colors the water green. (Actually it uses the nutrients algae needs to get established.)" [gives instruction on several types of filtering systems] http://www.exit109.com/~gosta/pond.sht Biological Pond Filter (Vegi Filter) http://www.kilk.net/pond/filter.html Planning > Filtration & Pumps http://www.pondrushes.net/planning.htm Low Maintenance > Filters http://www.pondrushes.net/lowmaint.htm How to build an Extra-large filter with 3 Settling chambers using pond liner. http://www.geocities.com/bickal2000/skimmer.htm Choosing a water pump for your fish pond ... Grasp the basics, make best decision Links: - Submersible pumps - Sump pumps & fish ponds - Learn about pump head or pressure - Save money - know the pond pump - How to choose stream or waterfall pumps - Pump power & kinked pipes - How to work out cost of running pump http://www.fish-pond-pumps.com/ Selecting a Waterfall Pump System http://www.angelfire.com/ga/earthwise/garden.html Building a Waterfall http://www.tetra-fish.com/pond/buildwaterfall.aspx 3) cleaning a pond, general pond maintenance, and controlling algae Low Maintenance http://www.pondrushes.net/lowmaint.htm Cleaning the Pond http://www.mnwgs.org/articles/ClnPdKM.htm "Algae problems in water gardens are generally caused by the action of the sun and excess nutrients in the water. If ponds are established properly and balanced with the correct ratio of plants, fish and scavengers, algae control and algae problems are not difficult to control. When first establishing a water garden, green water conditions will exist for about 2-3 weeks but will clear as the water equalizes between plant nutrient uptake and the introduction of nutrients from fertilizers and/or fish. The general cause of algae in ponds is excess nutrients from either the overstocking or overfeeding of fish, overfertilization of plants, or the lack of nutrient uptake by plants caused by planting too few plants in the pond. A general rule for stocking fishponds is to use 4-6 goldfish and one water lily for every square yard of water surface. Feed fish a specified amount of food per day, and only if necessary. Most fish can survive on naturally occurring foods within a balanced system." http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/watergarden/algae.html The Basics of a Clear Pond http://www.angelfire.com/ga/earthwise/garden.html Low Mainenance > Algae http://www.pondrushes.net/lowmaint.htm Control of Algae with Straw http://www.exit109.com/~gosta/pondstrw.sht How to Build a Pond Skimmer http://www.geocities.com/bickal2000/skimmer.htm Managing Nutrients to Control Algae http://www.exit109.com/~gosta/pondnutr.sht changing the water? There are two terrific times to give your pond a good, thorough cleaning. One is in Spring and the other is in Fall after the leaves have already fallen. It?s not a task to be taken lightly. It?s wet. It?s dirty. The muck stinks and the bottom of the pond is slippery. Performing a major pond cleaning requires courage to start the ball rolling and a little muscle to get it done." http://www.ponddoc.com/WhatsUpDoc/Seasonal/Cleaning.htm 4) ammonia, nitrates, and salts Chemicals? "I have a philosophy I would like to share with you. Quoting from the Gospel of Chuck, Chapter 2 verse 1, "Put not those things into the pond that you cannot easily remove, lest it be of need most dire. For verily I say unto you those things will gather together in abundance and there will be great gnashing of teeth." If you can't take a chemical out or it won't evaporate, it will build up to the point that you have to start doing water changes. " http://www.pondrushes.net/stuff.htm#Six Salt in the Garden Pond "As Sue pointed out, fish, whether goldfish or koi, maintain a 0.1% salt level in their bodies. In order to do this, they continually expend energy to draw salt from their environment. If we maintain this same level in the water in which they live; they will be healthier fish, with more energy to spend in fighting off parasites, disease, and stress. An appropriate salt level also assists our fish in dealing with less than perfect water conditions and assists them in their ability to gather oxygen from the water by maintaining better gill function. To achieve a 0.1% salt level, you need to gradually add 1 pound of salt per 100 gallons of water. A 0.1% salt concentration is considered a maintenance level...." http://www.mnwgs.org/articles/SaltinPond.htm "Let's talk about another popular additive to ponds - salt. This is one that I really have a problem with. A lot of koi people add it because of a myth that it's beneficial for the fish. Let me be blunt. Salt has no business being in your pond. Koi don't have salt in their ponds in nature and they do just fine. Supposedly, salt is beneficial in that it removes parasites from the fish. In reality, it does this by causing the fish to slough their slime coat which takes the parasites with it. But a fish without a slime coat is susceptible to diseases, fungi and parasites so you have to add a little more salt to kill those. Trust me, the fish are better off with their slime coats. Another problem with the salt is that is stays in the water. It can build up to the point that is not only kills your plants, but also kills your fish. Because of that, people who add salt have to do water changes. Now they'll tell you that they do it because they "don't want their fish living in a toilet." In reality, if your filters are working properly and you have sufficient plants in the pond, your water is pretty clean. It might not be something we'd like to live in, but then we're not fish. The water you're adding is pretty dead and has a much different pH than the water already in the pond. It could also have all kinds of other stuff in it that you don't know about. The water that's in the pond is the best water for the fish; it's a known." http://www.pondrushes.net/lowmaint.htm PLANTS AND FISH Horticulturist Doug Benedict discusses water garden plants in this audio clip. Horticulturist Doug Benedict discusses water garden fish in this audio clip. http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/wg_aquatic_animals_plants/article/0,2029,DIY_14418_2272619,00.html "The three types that I have found to be the easiest to care for are the Comet, Ryukin, and Shubunkin. Goldfish versus Koi Although both goldfish and koi are related, they are not the same. A couple of key differences make goldfish a much better choice for a home water garden. Koi grow much larger than goldfish (18 to 24 inches compared with 8 to 10 inches). More importantly from a water gardener's point of view, koi are voracious plant eaters. Goldfish will nibble at some plants but don't do nearly as much damage as koi." http://doityourself.com/pond/ongoldfishpond.htm Plants and Fish http://www.pondrushes.net/plants.htm USDA Pond & Planting Zones http://www.exit109.com/~gosta/pondzone.sht Plants for the Water Garden http://www.reemscreek.com/Library/plants_for_the_water_garden.htm 5) introducing plants and fish to the pond Ken Miyamoto facilitated a group that discussed selecting, transporting, releasing, and breeding goldfish and koi. The group stressed that fish need to be transported in bags of water with oxygen added. It was also emphasized that the fish need to be introduced to the new environment slowly. Floating the bags in the pond for 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the difference in water temperature can do this. Small additions of pond water can slowly be added to the bags to gradually acclimate the fish to their new home." http://www.mnwgs.org/articles/Aqtwlife.htm Transporting Fish "Be sure to tell us if you have a particularly long journey home. We always make sure the fish are placed in a bag with one part water to two or more parts oxygen. There only needs to be enough water to cover the fish?s gills; oxygen is much more important to the fish than water. Avoid carrying the fish bag in your lap since your body heat will increase the temperature of the water. You can reduce the stress to the fish by covering the bag with a blanket to cut out the light. When you arrive home, float the fish in the bag on the surface of the water for at least 30 minutes. This will allow the water in the bag to become the same temperature as the pond. When the water temperature matches that of the pond, open the bag and let the pond water slowly flow into the bag, then release the fish..." http://www.reemscreek.com/Library/fish_care.htm "After the pond is full, wait a week or two. Why? First, if you have city water, this allows chlorine to dissipate. If you use dechlorinator, then that is not a problem. If you have chloramine in your city water, a dechlorinator that can also neutralize ammonia must be added as chloramine will not dissipate over time to safe levels. Even if you have well water, like me, this time allows the water to settle, release gases, age a little, and things will start to happen! What? Algae will grow (not as bad as you think!), mosquitoes will lay eggs (don't panic!), if it's spring, toads and frogs will lay eggs (great! This happened the first week of my pond!). During this time, you can add pond plants if you like. They will help speed things up. Some people like to add some local pond water to innoculate their ponds but be careful as along with good bacteria, insects, etc. also come parasites and bad bacteria and critters too and of course, our friend algae. If you want to add pond water, try finding a pond without fish (so probably no fish parasites) or algae to get that water. You can also buy microcritters (daphnia, euglena, paramecium, scuds, etc.) if you want from some place like L.F.S. Cultures but they tend to live better in established ponds, and fish will eat them when/if you add fish. Also, buy your fish now but quarantine them elsewhere and treat them for any problems. After those two weeks are up, add in a few fish. Not too many! See my pond setup page for more information. The fish will be SOOOO happy! They will scarf up those mosquitoes which will NOT have had time after two weeks yet to turn into adults. They will eat other insects that will have shown up. They can nibble on algae and plants. The fish will be MUCH happier in a slightly aged system as it provides stable water (chemistry, temperature), sources of food (bugs, algae, tadpoles for larger fish), and places to hide (algae, plants now growing)." http://www.fishpondinfo.com/install.htm More information: Care Instructions For New Or Newly Transplanted Aquatic Plants "Aquatic plants will take approximately 2 - 4 weeks to recover from transplant trauma. Likewise, it will take about 4 - 6 weeks for newly planted water lilies, submerged plants, bog plants to establish them selves and be properly balanced in your pond. During this time, many water gardeners are concerned with green or greenish brown water. Please be patient, do not drain your pond and start over. This condition is normal and should subside once your plants are established." see: Aquatic Plant Care by Zone http://blueiriswatergardens.com/Care%20for%20Aquatic%20plants.htm 6) how much water per fish is required in a pond "Although goldfish were historically displayed in small "goldfish bowls", a healthy and happy goldfish requires at least 10 US gallons of water in order to live a full life. Each additional fish requires an additional five gallons (nearly 20 litres) of water. In fact, for single tailed varieties, such as commons or comets, it may even become necessary to have 20 to 50 US gallons (75 to 200 litres) per fish, depending on size. Other goldfish experts say that it is the amount of water surface area, not the water volume, that decides how many goldfish may live in a container; one square foot of water surface area for every inch of goldfish length. For example, if you had 3 goldfish of length 4 inches each, you might need 12 square feet of water surface area. Surface area is an approximate measure of how much oxygen may be absorbed into the water from the air. If the water is being further aerated by way of water pump or fountain, more goldfish may be kept in the container." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goldfish At a maximum, add only one fish for every 30 gallons of water; fewer are even better. If your pool or pond has no filtration or aeration, reduce the number still further. Also the larger the surface area of the pool or pond, the more oxygen there will be in the water." http://doityourself.com/pond/ongoldfishpond.htm "Fish volume is the next problem. The rule of thumb in water gardening is about 2 inches of fish for every square foot of water surface area. I always thought this a strange rule. I guess it is OK if your fish live on the surface of the water, but frankly when mine start living there, I scoop them out and bury them in the garden because they've gone 'fins up' and aren't living. The rule of thumb REALLY works out in your average pond to is 2 inches of fish for every 12 to 15 GALLONS of water - assuming an average of 1 1/2 to 2 feet of depth. And that is still higher than most lakes you will run across mainly because they are MUCH deeper. The ratio there is probably 2 inches for every 120 to 150 gallons!!! So we have introduced more fish than you see in nature, and we have less stuff in our ponds to grow the micro organisms to take care of them. We either have to keep fewer fish, or create an environment for more micro organisms to take care of the extra load. And that is the main purpose of a biological filter. It is a container that contains some sort of material that is high in surface area to grow micro organisms to convert the toxic junk in the pond water we pump thru. As an added bonus, most biofilters also help to get the junk off the bottom of your pond. It ends up in your filter, but you can clean that easier than you can clean you pond." http://www.pondrushes.net/stuff.htm#Four 7) breeding goldfish "Goldfish usually mature in their second year but this varies with diet, water temperature, and other environmental influences. In the wild, breeding occurs during the summer; breeding can occur year round in indoor aquariums. Mature female goldfish will become rounder during breeding; males develop tubercles (small bumps) on their heads, operculi, and pectoral fins. Males chase the females for several days before spawning occurs. Females can produce several thousand eggs per spawning period every 8 to 10 days. Eggs are not guarded. Goldfish eggs hatch in about 4-5 days at 18-20 degrees centegrade (64-68 degrees F.)." http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/site/accounts/information/Carassius_auratus.html How can I breed goldfish? [photos] * When in spawning condition, male goldfish develop nuptial tubercles - small white pimples on the gill covers, as shown opposite (arrows). * Behaviour: As they approach sexual maturity, males begin to chase females in mock spawning runs. This is particularly noticeable when they are feeling frisky after a substantial waterchange - watch your fish at this time and note which are males (chasers) and which are females (chased). * Vent sexing - difficult, for experts only. http://mike-edwardes.members.beeb.net/Cauratus.html#7 Koi and Pond fish Breeding http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/ponds/Fenner_Koi,%20Pond%20Fish%20Breeding.html How to Breed Goldfish http://www.pond-doctor.co.uk/longgoldfishbreeding.html 8) goldfish changing colour Background Information About Goldfish [see colour] http://www.bristol-aquarists.org.uk/goldfish/info/info.htm "My aim here is to provide an overview Kai coloration and in doing so help to explain some of the mysterious changes you may have noticed in your own fish." http://www.akca.org/library/colors.htm Why is my goldfish changing color? How do I stop it? http://www.geocities.com/Tokyo/4468/faq_biology.html 9) water temperature & pH Typically, goldfish will survive in water temperatures ranging from freezing to 30 degrees centegrade. Fancy varieties(orandas, lionheads, ranchu, veiltailes...) should be kept in water no cooler than room temperature. http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/site/accounts/information/Carassius_auratus.html "Goldfish prefer a pH range of 6.5-8.5." http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/site/accounts/information/Carassius_auratus.html "Because goldfish are temperate animals, they can withstand a wide range of temperatures. In a natural pond, or a water garden large enough, goldfish may even winter over when the water freezes at the surface. In the aquarium-it's best to maintain them at 68 to 76 degrees F. Because of their metabolic demands, the cooler water is best for their survival." http://www.aquariumhobbyist.com/articles/Goldfish.html 10) health, diseases and their symptoms Signs Identifying Possible Diseases http://www.goldfishinfo.com/identify.htm Fish disease & diagnosis http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/disease/diseasehome.htm Fish Disease Movies http://www.fishdoc.co.uk/video/fishmovies.htm How to Prevent Spring Disease Outbreaks in Koi & Goldfish http://www.ponddoc.com/WhatsUpDoc/FishHealth/SpringOutbreak.htm Potassium Permanganate, or "PP" for short, is a widely used substance that works to rid your pond of parasites and harmful bacteria. The Doc might prescribe PP from time to time. When he does, use these easy-to-follow directions for the best results." http://www.ponddoc.com/WhatsUpDoc/FishHealth/PP.html The Goldfish Doctor (book) http://www.goldfishdoctor.com/ 11) how long to goldfish live "Although there is one report of a pet goldfish who lived 43 years, 25 years is a more reasonable maximum lifespan for a goldfish kept in a pond. In an aquarium, ten years is more likely. In the wild, lifespan is undoubtedly less." http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/site/accounts/information/Carassius_auratus.html I hope this will get you off to a good start. If you have any questions, please post a clarification request and wait for me to respond before closing/rating my answer. Thank you, hummer Google Search Terms Used: all of the above! Such as, goldfish building ponds diseases plants breeding filters pumps salt waterfalls maintenance lifespan calculators how-to step-by-step, etc.


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